• Canada’s Serengeti

    They looked, for all intents and purposes, like prize fighters circling one another in the boxing ring.  And when the metaphorical gloves came off, they went at each other, hammer and tong.  A right jab here, a left hook there, followed by an upper cut to the torso. Until they collapsed into a massive furry heap on the Arctic snow.  The combatants we were observing were two enormous young adult polar bears, weighing approximately 400 and 700 pounds, respectively. And as it turned out, they were not combatants at all. Rather these two male bears were displaying a form of skills training. Sparring and honing their skills as they prepared…

  • Keep your cars unlocked – bears in town.

    Virtually every city in the world has a problem with car theft. Not just with stealing cars but also breaking into vehicles. But there is one exception. Churchill, Manitoba. Population 995. There, citizens are encouraged to leave their car doors unlocked. Also, the front doors of their homes and offices.  Why? Because Churchill has a problem with polar bears who walk through the town in mid-fall. The bears, the largest land mammals in the world, weigh up to 500 pounds and are potentially dangerous. As a result residents frequently need last minute escape routes 24 hours a day. Hence if a bear threatens, someone can run for cover to the…

  • Manitoba beluga choir is one of nature’s greatest gifts

    Visitors from all over the world — China, Morocco, Mexico, Europe, including, of course, Canadians and Americans — had front row seats this month to one of the most extraordinary concerts on our planet. A choir made up of dozens and dozens of gentle giants: beluga whales.  It is one of nature’s greatest gifts and perhaps one of Northern Canada’s best kept secrets.  The belugas are frequently known as “sea canaries” because of the unique and varied sounds they make — they squeak, chirp, squeal, make clicking sounds, whistle, clang and mew in an aquatic symphony that played out for over an hour during our recent visit.  The sounds the…

  • EXPO ’67, Montreal: The beginning of a lifelong journey around the world.

    “Jackson, get yourself to Rotterdam in 48 hours and there is a cargo ship that will take you to Canada,” said the heavily accented voice on the end of the phone. It was the summer of 1967 and I was bored out of my mind, half way through the summer semester at my boarding school in the English countryside. I had seen a program that spring on the flagship BBC news show Panorama about the opening of the World’s Fair in Montreal, Canada. It became my obsession – I wanted to see it. Actually I HAD to see it. But I had no money! I was 16 and it was…

  • 1966 and all that

    It was tucked away in the personal column of the prestigious Times newspaper published in London, England. A two line ad offering tickets to the World Cup Final at Wembley on July 30, 1966. This was Wednesday, July 27 – the morning after England had just beaten Portugal to reach the final. It would be against their bitterest rivals, West Germany, less than two decades after World War Two. I phoned the number given in the ad and was told yes the tickets were legitimate, but there would be a broker’s fee. The price of the ticket: ten shillings (just over one Canadian dollar)!  The scalper mark up:  five shillings…

  • The United States of Muhammad Ali

    Muhammad Ali was arguably the greatest athlete of the twentieth century. Certainly the most charismatic. I had to see him fight. Live. Actually, I knew very little about boxing – until Ali, or Cassius Clay as he was then known, burst onto the scene winning a gold medal in Rome at the 1960 Olympic Games. As a teenager I kept up with his fights: usually by listening to a transistor radio, with poor reception, under my bed sheets in the middle of the night because of the time difference. Often in a dormitory of 20 or so other lads at boarding school. I had to keep the sound down so…

  • Back in the USSR – 1973

    The newspaper advertisement was tiny, but the promise of adventure was huge. It was a three-line ad in the travel section of the Bristol Evening Post in the spring of 1973. Placed there by Intourist, the government-run travel agency in the USSR, it offered trips all around the Soviet Union. The itinerary included stops in Leningrad (as it was still known then), Moscow, Kiev and Tashkent along with visits to fabled cities like Samarkand on the silk road through Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Kazakhstan. The cost – the equivalent of about $300 per person – was a bargain, heavily subsidized by the Soviet government and Aeroflot, the national airline. There was…

  • The Orient Express: November 1974

    It IS murder on the Orient Express. That was one of my favourite lines from 50 years in journalism. I had just reached Istanbul after a three day journey on the Orient Express from Paris. And I had writer’s block. The journey was certainly not the romantic adventure of yesteryear. In fact it was hell. The cramped rail coaches were hot, steamy and uncomfortable. Then the line came to me and the story flowed from there. I was working on the Daily Mail in London’s Fleet Street and was assigned to travel on the famous train for a feature to coincide with the opening of the Agatha Christie film, Murder…

  • From Fleet Street to Bell Hop

    One month I was interviewing presidents and prime ministers, and kings, queens and entertainment superstars, and the next I was carrying bags for the rich and famous at a ritzy hotel on the beach in California. It was all part of the plan. After more than two years working as a reporter on the Daily Mail in London’s Fleet Street I was 25 and knew it was now or never: if I really wanted to fulfill my lifetime ambition to travel around the world I had to leave then before settling down. A friend who ran a shipping company arranged for me to sail the Atlantic on one of his…

  • Honeymoon Part One: South America -1979

    by Clive and Carol-Ann Jackson Guns drawn, four intimidating soldiers surrounded me as a seemingly straightforward dispute escalated out of control at a hotel in Asuncion, Paraguay. It was over my refusal to pay a hotel bill because I believed I was being ripped off. My wife stood helplessly nearby. Tension mounted. As the impasse escalated the only way I was able to resolve the deadlock was to demand a call to the British Consulate where a diplomat was able to negotiate a settlement between the hotel manager and me. We had arrived late the previous evening in Asuncion, the capital of a country known at that time as a…