• The Night of the Hyenas – 2015

    My friend Ted is normally a calm, placid man. Nothing really bothers him. That was until 4.00a.m. in the pitch black of an African night, when he heard a rustling sound, looked at the shadow cast by the tiny light outside his tent flap and saw a hyena looking in on him.  For an hour the hyena stalked Ted’s tent. They are one of the most dangerous animals in Africa with jaws capable of crushing bone and known to attack humans. It eventually ambled off after marking its territory all around Ted’s tent. Thirty minutes later Ted came to breakfast looking as white as a sheet. Just hours before the…

  • Uluru – 2016

    From the air, we flew over miles and miles of red desert. And then out of nowhere, a massive sandstone monolith. We were looking down on Uluru, or Ayers Rock, stunned by the beauty of this vast freak of geology. In this remarkable terracotta landscape of dunes and scrub, Ayers Rock suddenly appears like a rusted battleship from the desert floor. It is a sacred place that has only really opened up for tourists over the past 20 years or so. In fact, when we were in Australia back in 1981 the only way to get there – it is smack in the centre of Australia – was to drive…

  • Cuba – 2017

    It was dubbed Obama’s Glasnost. Just before Christmas, in December 2014, the then president announced the opening of relations with Cuba after 54 years. He called the previous US policy, which sought to isolate the communist government, a failure. Although the US trade embargo remains in place, Obama started the thaw – and started a flood of interest by US citizens wanting to visit Cuba. We wanted to beat them to see this mysterious country before it was overrun with tourists, cruise ships and tour buses – and get there before Cuba, emerging from the 1950’s – lost its unique identity. And we were amongst the first tourists to book…

  • Camping in the Okavango Delta – September 2017

    The noise was deafening as 40 or 50 Vervet monkeys started shrieking loudly from the tops of a group of rain trees in Botswana’s Okavango Delta. “Let’s go,” shouted our guide. “That’s the alarm call from the monkeys that there is a predator in the area.”  Moments later we spotted a year old male leopard running between the trees and tracked him for several minutes until he disappeared into thick bush. Andrew Harkness, the guide/owner of the mobile safari company we were with, is in many ways a wildlife detective. He could interpret sights and sounds of wild animals and birds to lead us to Africa’s greatest predators. Vultures are…

  • Iceland: The Land of Fire and Ice – 2018

    Iceland – The Land of Fire and Ice – may not be the first place that springs to mind for a cruise, but in many ways it is the perfect voyage – allowing unprecedented views of this diverse and beautiful landscape. You can watch from the decks as you sail by towering mountains of ice, spectacular fjords, stunning waterfalls, geysers, some of the world’s most active volcanoes, black sand beaches, and steaming lava fields – reminiscent of an almost alien landscape. The most common way to see Iceland is to drive the Ring Road, a 2,100 mile route encircling the country – but it doesn’t go anywhere near where a…

  • Ethiopia: One of Africa’s Best Kept Secrets – 2019

    Ethiopia is one of Africa’s best kept secrets.  When I told friends we were going there in the spring of 2019, they were almost unanimous: “Why would you want to go there….isn’t it the poorest country in Africa…..aren’t they still in the midst of a famine….is it safe?” And the crash of Ethiopian Airlines Max 8, a few weeks before we departed Canada, didn’t help. Yes, they are poor, but proud. So proud. And while food shortages and poverty are continuing issues, they are nowhere as desperate as they once were in the Eighties. And in the ten days we were there, we never once felt remotely unsafe. Time, armed…

  • Warning: Pirates. A Journey Along the West Coast of Africa – 2019

    We knew this adventure cruise along the West Coast of Africa was potentially dangerous. But when we were told about the threat of pirates, it raised our anxiety to a whole new level. We were embarking on a 16 day cruise along the African coast…from Ghana to Morocco.  As soon as we stepped on board our Silversea expedition ship, the Silver Cloud, we heard that the ship had already had to bypass two West Coast countries because of the very real threat of piracy: and that several times the ship had to be plunged into total darkness – all lights had to be turned out, or black out curtains used…

  • Back to Alaska: Again, again and again!

    There’s a land where the mountains are nameless,    And the rivers all run God knows where; There are lives that are erring and aimless,    And deaths that just hang by a hair; There are hardships that nobody reckons;    There are valleys unpeopled and still; There’s a land—oh, it beckons and beckons,    And I want to go back—and I will. I was a 15 year old in England when my geography teacher read this Robert Service poem by way of introduction to a lesson on the Yukon and Alaska. I never forgot it: and it inspired me to one day make the trek to the North and see this land for…

  • Counting Countries

    Radoslav Bozovic thought we were nuts. Absolutely nuts. We’d hired him to drive us through five countries in a day. We left Dubrovnik, Croatia, early in the morning, then drove through Bosnia, Montenegro, Albania, Kosovo and finally to Skopje, Macedonia. Actually we made the trip for a couple of reasons. Largely it was economic. We wanted to see Dubrovnik, but then had to make our way to Istanbul where we had already booked flights with Turkish Airlines down to South Africa. And there were no direct flights from Dubrovnik to Istanbul. To fly would have taken all day and cost twice as much as it did to drive. Not to…

  • MY TOP TEN TRIPS

    Each journey can be done in around three weeks. 1. GALAPAGOS, MACHU PICCHU and EASTER ISLAND. Fly to Quito, Ecuador. One day there: fantastic city. Fly round trip from Quito to Galapagos. You need to take a seven-day boat tour of the islands. Only way to get around. Take zodiacs from the mother ship to different islands every day. See amazing wild life, including 400 pound tortoises. Fly back to Quito and direct to Lima, Peru. One night there, fly to Cusco (10,000 feet). Two days there to acclimatize. You need a coca based tea to overcome altitude sickness. From Cusco take a train to Machu Picchu. Overnight there (but…